“I could feel this exchange of power, vulnerability, and intimacy.”
Whenever latex and leather are involved, my interest is piqued. So when I saw Xiao Xu’s ornate latex sweaters appear on my feed, I was immediately enthralled. The recent Parsons Paris graduate designed a breakout collection showing off her extraordinary talent for molding latex and leather. Pictured in Xu’s collection were male models in collars, leashes, and ruffled coats, invoking the 1970s fetishists depicted in the book, Dressing for Pleasure. Her designs push the envelope on what menswear can look like. I met with the young designer over Zoom to talk about all things fashion and fetish.
Chance Goode: It’s a pleasure to meet you.
Xiao Xu: Thank you!
CG: So you’re in China right now, is that where you’re based?
XX: No, I’m based in Paris. I came back to China to enjoy my summer break.
CG: I wanted to discuss your collection titled Uncanny. It was sexy and sophisticated. What was the story behind the collection?
XX: The inspiration comes from a book called Dressing for Pleasure, which is a seventies fetish archive where I found these interesting pictures of ladies wearing latex ruffled dresses. I felt it was quite interesting because it’s not like classic fetish, it’s more “granny fetish.” I wanted to apply those fetish elements in menswear because I think it can put men in a relatively fragile place. The artworks of Rachel Whiteread also inspired me. She casts everyday household items in rubber or resin. This is quite aligned with my concept because I’m trying to explore the contrast between domesticity and fetishism.
CG: I am really into the juxtaposition between the femininity and ruggedness, which I think is something that’s missing from menswear. What first drew you to menswear?
XX: To be honest, my work is quite gender neutral, but I feel like vintage fetish elements are not as fresh in womenswear. Doing menswear felt more exciting. I find that there’s too much classical menswear. I wanted to create something new.
CG: I totally agree. That’s what attracted me to your designs; it’s completely different from the classical tailoring and sartorial looks that I see all the time with menswear. The latex sweaters are truly works of art. I’ve never seen latex molded with such intricate patterns before. How did you accomplish this?
XX: I work a lot with leather, and there is a technique called leather molding. So I thought to myself, maybe I could use this same technique in latex, and because I was inspired by Rachel Whiteread, I referred to her approach with casting. I created 3D printed models and poured liquid latex inside. Once they’re dry, I pull them out and use the latex garment technique to finish them. I mold every pattern, every detail with hammers and my hands. It’s super complicated
CG: It sounds very complicated, but the result is incredible. Why did you decide to work with latex and leather?
XX: That’s my personal taste, and this is the material most commonly used in fetish culture. I also want to do my designs in unconventional ways. The sweaters are made with latex, whereas the other pieces are made of leather. When I use latex, I don’t want to make it like traditional latex garments. Instead, I want to make them more like sculptures. With the leather, I want them to look shiny, mimicking the shine of latex. This makes them appear less fragile.
CG: Leather is one of my favorite materials to wear. It has a rich history in the queer community. What attracted you to referencing fetishism?
XX: Fetish is not only about sex. The starting point was when I read Dressing for Pleasure. I found that I was fascinated by the people who were depicted, as well as the shiny latex they wore. I became obsessed with it. What was most important was their attitude; they’re very bold and willing to explore their boundaries. I remember seeing a guy with his hands over a gimp mask. I could feel this exchange of power, vulnerability, and intimacy.
CG: I saw that you were selected as a finalist in the 31st annual Mittell Moda Fashion Awards. Congratulations. How does it feel to be a finalist?
XX: It’s really exciting because I will go to Milan in September or October.
CG: I will be rooting for you.
XX: Thank you!
CG: What are your latest obsessions right now?
XX: I’m obsessed with making something new because every part of my creating journey is like a conversation. A conversation between contemporary reality and archival references. I’m into bringing past things to modern life and making it in an unconventional way. Also, I’m really focused on craftsmanship.
CG: Do you plan on showing in Paris Fashion Week during the menswear season?
XX: It depends on the situation. I will have a presentation or a show, either in January or June, but I haven’t decided.
CG: What’s next for you and your brand?
XX: Right now, I don’t know. My collections always go with the flow because my inspiration comes from what I’ve been seeing recently. I am not entirely certain what’s next, but I will make sure that it will be gender neutral. It will not be super classical menswear. It will be more fun. I am inspired by people. The people in Dressing for Pleasure are from the seventies. I like to imagine what they would look like right now. They would look more modern, but their attitude wouldn’t change.
CG: Speaking of attitudes, I loved the photo of the model who’s giving off this sinister smile. He looked wicked in your latex sweater!
XX: That model is Patrick Cordier. He’s an old-school punk who fits perfectly in my collection. I am interested in the different kinds of people that I meet, as this helps me to decide what I should do for the next season.
Can I ask you a question?
CG: Yes, of course.
XX: Are there any interesting fetish clubs in New York?
CG: There are a couple of fetish parties, such as Fascination and Bruise. The best ones are underground.
XX: I really want to go to New York to enjoy them.
CG: Well, if you ever come to New York and need new people to be inspired by, I’d love to show you around and help influence your next collection.
XX: I would love that!